Agreeing the price is the easy part. Transferring ownership is what turns that agreement into a car that is actually yours β and until that step completes, the car legally belongs to the seller no matter what you have paid. This guide covers what needs to be ready before the day of the deal, and what should stop it if it isn't.
The person in front of you isn't necessarily the person entitled to dispose of the car. Confirm one of two things before you hand over anything, including a small deposit:
The difference between a power of attorney that authorises a sale and one that only authorises use is the difference between a valid deal and money paid to someone with no right to take it.
Assemble this list before the appointment. A missing document on the day means a postponement, and sometimes one party walking away:
| Document | Whose | What to verify |
|---|---|---|
| Vehicle registration | Seller | Original, name matches ID, engine and chassis details match the car |
| National ID | Both parties | Currently valid |
| Power of attorney (if any) | Seller | Valid, and explicitly grants the right to sell |
| Clearance of outstanding fines | Seller | No unpaid fines against the plate |
| Customs import paperwork | Seller | Imported cars only, and matching the chassis number |
Before signing, match the chassis number stamped on the car against the one written in the registration, character by character. Any discrepancy β or any sign the number plate has been defaced or re-fixed β is reason to end the deal on the spot without discussion. A car whose chassis number doesn't match may not be transferable at all.
Where to find the number and how to read it is covered in our chassis number guide.
A car can be mechanically sound with its paperwork in the owner's hands and still be untransferable because there is a mortgage or a seizure against it. This doesn't show up in a viewing, and a seller who knows about it won't raise it. Ask directly before paying, and make confirming the car is clear a condition of the agreement.
The safe structure is for payment, signing and transfer to happen in the same sitting wherever possible. Where that isn't possible, the minimum acceptable alternative is a written sale contract signed by both parties stating:
Keep a signed copy, and photograph every document before handing any of them over.
Confirm you have received the registration in your own name and that the plate and vehicle details are recorded correctly. Check on the same day β correcting a registration error is far easier before time passes.
Transfer isn't a formality that follows the deal; it is the deal. Verify the right to sell, match the numbers, confirm the car is free of mortgage and fines, and don't pay in full until all three are settled.
If you're still searching, start with the car listings on Auto Bazar and read our used car buying guide before the viewing.
The original registration in the seller's name, valid ID for both parties, a power of attorney explicitly granting the right to sell if the seller isn't the owner, clearance of outstanding fines, and customs paperwork for imported cars.
Match their name in the vehicle registration against their national ID. If they are selling under a power of attorney, read the document yourself and confirm it authorises a sale specifically, not merely use or driving.
End the deal immediately. A defaced number, or one differing from the registration, can mean the car cannot be transferred at all, and is reason to walk away without discussion.
It cannot be transferred. A car can be mechanically sound with its paperwork in hand and still be blocked by a mortgage or seizure. Ask directly before paying and make the car being clear a condition of the agreement.
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