The battery is the part most often bought at the worst possible moment: after the car has failed to start, from the nearest shop, with no comparison. The result is that many people pay more than they should and end up with a battery that doesn't suit their car. This guide covers what to know before you reach that moment.
A battery isn't one size. Three figures have to match what your car's manufacturer specifies:
The easiest method: photograph the old battery from above before going to buy β the label carries all three figures.
| The sign | What it means |
|---|---|
| Noticeably slow cranking | The clearest sign, and it appears first in the cold |
| Lights dimming on start-up | The battery isn't delivering enough current |
| Repeated need for a charge or a push | It no longer holds a charge |
| White or green corrosion around the terminals | Obstructing the connection β clean it before judging the battery |
| Swelling in the casing | Replace immediately |
Not every starting problem is a battery problem. Corroded terminals or a loose cable produce the same symptoms and are fixed by cleaning and tightening. And a failed alternator will consume a new battery within weeks β anyone replacing the battery without checking the charging system may buy it twice.
Before buying: clean the terminals, confirm both cables are tight, then have the battery and the alternator tested together.
Two things shorten battery life most: leaving the car standing for long periods, and running electrics with the engine off. Frequent short journeys also give the alternator too little time to recharge. If your car stands for long stretches, run it periodically for a meaningful period rather than a few minutes.
Browse the parts listings, and read how to spot counterfeit parts β batteries are among the parts where forgery shows up.
Photograph your battery's label before you need a replacement, check the terminals and the alternator before replacing, and verify the manufacturing date and warranty when you buy.
Three figures must match the manufacturer's specification: capacity in amp-hours, cold cranking amps, and the size and terminal orientation. The easiest method is to photograph the old battery's label from above before buying.
Noticeably slow cranking that shows first in the cold, lights dimming on start-up, repeated need for a charge or a push, corrosion around the terminals, and any swelling in the casing, which means replace immediately.
No. Corroded terminals or a loose cable produce the same symptoms and are fixed by cleaning and tightening. A failed alternator consumes a new battery within weeks, so test the charging system before replacing.
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